Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.
This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the owners totally shocked.
“I’m totally surprised,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble shop earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.
The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.
In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.
The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.
It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.
Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.
“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.
The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.
A tech enthusiast and lifestyle writer with a passion for exploring how innovation shapes daily experiences and personal growth.